Cambodian Trip
December 29, 2007, 01:15
Spent the last week of the year in Cambodia with the family where we had the opportunity to take a tour of the huge Angkor Wat temple complex. Discovered only in the 19th century by the French, the ancient temple was originally built as a shrine to the Hindu God Vishnu before it was later converted into a Buddhist temple. The Hindu influence is seen in the fact that the architecture of Angkor Wat is similar to the temples of north India. The temple complex is surrounded by a humongous moat and within the complex, sparse vegetation litter what must have once been a lush and beautiful garden. As one steps into the temple, one is greeted by the eight-handed statue of Vishnu. Further into the temple, we see four ritual pools representing the elements which have long been dried up. The pillars of the temple are also embossed with Sanskrit as well as floral patterns. Dancing Apsaras are also carved in the various bas reliefs around the temple alongside Buddhas meditating in various poses, a testament to the glory of the Angkor dynasty. Along the corridor of Buddhas, one would be able to see a whole row of headless Buddhas. Their heads had been hacked during the Khmer Rouge war by looters and shipped to the West for sale.
What is unusual about the Angkor Wat site is that it is the most well preserved temple in the area and that one can see herds of white moths flying around the complex, a phenomena that cannot be easily explained. One can only construe that they are the souls of the dead who have passed on and are now watching over the temple.
We also visited the ancient temple of Bayon which was built in the 12th century. On the steeple of each pagoda is carved the 200 faces of Lokesvara in various forms of expression. A common explanation for the many faces is that it embodies the Mahayana tradition that the Lokesvara knows all and hears all prayers under heaven.
We also saw the sunset from one of the hill temples there, which was beautiful!
Cambodia remains a very poor country. Our journey to Siem Reap involved us travelling by bus from Bangkok. The road to Siem Reap was mostly just mud tracks. People were also wallowing in poverty. It was a heartbreaking sight to see children as young as eight begging for food or even working as porters. Although international aid agencies and foreign governments have worked to provide infrastructural development, these have been few and far between. Although education is free for the first nine years, many pupils drop out because their parents are unable to afford the miscellanous fees. Teachers are also poorly paid. Secondary schools and vocational instutes are also few and far between.
Most Cambodians rely on subsistence farming, yielding only one harvest a year. Poor irrigation systems have meant that farmers are unable to yield the two-three harvests which they used to in ancient times.
Cambodia is also reeling from the effects of the Khmer Rouge regime. The murder of the intelligentsia as well as widespread political factionalism have meant that development remains sluggish as talent and skilled people are lacking.
The poverty in Cambodia is desperate. I am thinking of doing something to help. Some of the ideas that I have been thinking are possibly sponsoring a nutrition programme for children or supporting expenses for schoolgoing children so that learning can be conducive and parents might be encouraged to send their children to school. Anybody interested?
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